Authors: Molly Chester,Sally Schrecengost
Back to Butter: A Traditional Foods Cookbook - Nourishing Recipes Inspired by Our Ancestors (10 page)
• Use an oven thermometer to ensure the oven temperature is accurate; too much heat can cause the kernels to overcook and dissolve and too little heat can result in improperly cooked kernels.
HOW TO GRIND DRIED HOMINY
Dried, whole hominy can be finely or coarsely ground using a home grain mill (
page 217
). Keep in mind that not all home grain mills are equipped to do so, however, make sure yours does before using or purchasing. Even still, some grain mills are able to grind dried corn but not dried hominy, which is slightly larger and may have trouble getting through the small mouth of the mill. If that’s the case, spread a flour sack towel onto a table and place a small pile of hominy in the center. Fold the edges of the towel over the top of the corn, and use a rolling pin to pound the corn into smaller pieces. Check the corn for any remaining whole pieces and continue to pound until every piece is cracked. Once cracked, the mill should accept the corn with ease. Remember, hominy grits (equivalent to polenta) are
coarsely ground
dried hominy—perfect in our Hominy Pie (
page 144
)—and masa harina (equivalent to corn flour) is
finely ground
dried hominy, which is used to make tortillas, tamales, and more.
NATURAL SWEETENERS
Our entire family was born with one gigantic sweet tooth. Every last one of us has found ultimate bliss in a warm cookie—then again, who hasn’t?
But over the years, we began to discover the downfalls of white sugar: low energy, frequent colds, moodiness, and even more cravings. Desperate for a fix (and on our way to Traditional Foods), we experimented with more natural sweeteners, and low and behold, we felt better. But it wasn’t until we relegated sweets—even natural ones—to “treat” status that we really noticed a difference. What does that mean? Well for one, the candy bowl gets removed from its permanent post on the counter. Dessert is more of a
no
than a
yes
, and sodas are an absolute rarity. We feel that kids should be rewarded with hugs and stickers over candy and we also feel, based on the personal experience of our own bodies, that radiant health cannot be achieved without sugar becoming a
condiment
and not an
entrée
.
“Radiant health cannot be achieved without sugar becoming a condiment and not an
entrée.
”
All of this might sound depressing If you’re a sugar addict, but we have an amazingly effective secret for you: If the amount of healthy fats in a diet goes up, sugar cravings go down. Fats make you feel fuller and more satiated, and keep your blood sugar levels balanced. As a result, your cravings go down—way down—and are replaced with more wholesome desires.
The next segment is a breakdown of the natural sweeteners commonly used in a Traditional Foods diet (and in this cookbook), most of which can be found at your local health food store (but visit the Resources section on
page 216
if you’re having any trouble sourcing).
Organic
is recommended for all.
And remember, these sweeteners, with the exception of powdered green stevia, should still be regarded as an
occasional
treat and used in moderation.
POWDERED HONEY GRANULES: THE POWDERED SUGAR SUBSTITUTE
Powdered honey granules are honey granules broken down to reach a texture similar to that of refined powdered sugar. One cup of honey granules yields 1 cup (120 g) of powdered honey granules.
TO MAKE: Measure the desired amount into the bowl of a blender. Cover and blend on high speed. Stop every 10 seconds to redistribute the granules. Continue blending until the granules are powdered, but avoid over-blending. The motor of the blender can melt the granules. Store in an airtight glass container in a cool pantry for several months. Warm temperatures may cause the powder to harden over time. Simply reprocess in the blender.
SUCANAT:
SU
-gar
CA
-ne
NAT
-ural
Sucanat is pure, dried sugar cane juice. Unlike common white sugar, Sucanat is unrefined and therefore contains the molasses mineral content typically lost in the refining process, resulting in a rustic color and deep flavor. Aesthetically, Sucanat’s closest relative is brown sugar, for which a 1:1 substitution is commonplace; however, Sucanat is more granular, less moist, and more nutritious (brown sugar is typically common white sugar with just a bit of molasses added back). Sucanat is featured in our Chips Off the Old Block (
page 138
) and Sweet Ham Loaf (
page 195
).
RAW HONEY: NATURE’S LIQUID SWEETENER
Most store-bought honey is pasteurized, meaning it has been heated and strained to obtain a clear product that is easier to pour. Unfortunately, during this pasteurization process, many of the beneficial bacteria and enzymes, which help our bodies break down the sweetener, are destroyed. Unpasteurized or raw honey, on the other hand, still contains these valuable properties.
Raw honey can be thick and pastelike, but not always. Although a thick raw honey can be used in equal measure for a pourable raw variety, sourcing the latter combines ease of use with healthy benefits. And though the heat of recipe preparation negates many of these positive properties, we still recommend purchasing raw honey for cooking and baking, as we find the overall quality of the honey to be more consistent, and we prefer supporting farmers who choose less refinement in their practices. That said, even pasteurized honey is still a better choice than white sugar.
Raw honey substitutes 1:1 for liquid sweeteners. We feature it in our Roasted Shrimp Salsa (
page 70
), and Red Rice Salad with Cumin Dressing (
page 109
).
HONEY GRANULES: THE WHITE SUGAR SUBSTITUTE
Honey granules are a unique sweetener made from a combination of unrefined sugar cane juice (Sucanat) and honey, which is added to lighten the color and texture of the final product. Honey granules are the most accurate 1:1 natural sweetener swap for white sugar. The color of the final product will be earthier, resulting in a cream/eggshell color over a pure white. Honey granules are featured in our Sweet Onion Dressing (
page 110
) and E-Anne’s Shortcakes (
page 204
).
REAL MAPLE SYRUP: CONTAINS ONLY ONE INGREDIENT
Real maple syrup comes from a maple tree; fake maple syrup is colored sugar water. Look at the ingredients carefully before buying—if they include only maple syrup, you’ve found the mother ship! The flavor will be richly sweet and full. This lovely natural sweetener comes in varying grades; Grade A is considered “premier” because of color and clarity and is perfect for drizzling over a warm sourdough pancake, while Grade B is usually cloudier and darker in color and is suggested for cooking and baking. Real maple syrup substitutes 1:1 for any liquid sweetener and is featured in both our Sticky Chicken (
page 130
) and Sprouted Apple Butter Dots (
page 199
).
MAPLE SUGAR: DEHYDRATED MAPLE SYRUP
Maple sugar (or crystals) is simply dehydrated maple syrup, and what a treat it is! The sugar can be substituted 1:1 for white sugar, but keep in mind it does add maple flavor and an extra soft fluffiness to the final texture of baked goods, which can be quite nice in the case of cookies and cakes. The sugar can also be pricey, so use it conservatively. Maple sugar is featured in Sourdough Bread Pudding with Raisins (
page 190
) and our Maple Walnut Cake with Cream Cheese Frosting (
page 203
).
POWDERED GREEN STEVIA: A SWEET PLANT WITHOUT THE “CRASH”
Stevia is an herb native to South America, where its natural green leaves are traditionally steeped in tea to impart a pleasantly sweet taste. The leaves can also be dried and crushed into a fine green powder. Many people who are intolerant of all sweeteners, even natural ones, enjoy powdered green stevia with no side effects.
An additional refinement process can turn the green powder to white, but we feel it also imparts a bitter aftertaste, reminiscent of artificial sweeteners, and refinement is something we work hard to avoid. We also find the white version to be much stronger, so we stick to the most natural version. Due to its natural green color, however, powdered stevia is best used in a recipe where the green color blends well into the deeper hue of other ingredients, such as in our Chester Cookies (
page 196
).
Powdered green stevia is significantly stronger than white sugar; approximately 1 teaspoon (2.5 g) can replace
1
/
4
cup (50 g) sugar. Stevia also works well in tandem with another sweetener. For example, 1 teaspoon (2.5 g) of powdered green stevia plus
1
/
4
cup (80 g) raw honey results in a taste that is similar in strength and flavor to
1
/
2
cup (160 g) raw honey.
DATES: NATURE’S CANDY
Let’s clarify: In saying “date,” we are referring to the whole, dried fruit, not the chopped, sugar-coated dates that appeared in the 1980s to make fruitcakes at Christmas. Several varieties of whole, dried dates are available at the farmers’ markets in California and other desert climates, but the king of all dates, the Medjool date, is available in most grocery stores and truly satisfies even the most persistent sweet tooth. Dates are featured in our lightly sweet and refreshing Lemon Vinaigrette (
page 112
) and the quick, satisfying snack Almond Boy (
page 207
).
TRADITIONAL FOODS RECIPES
When you step into the kitchen and tie on that apron, you’re more than a cook—you’re an artist. Consider the stove your easel and the ingredients your paint. As these recipes were developed, you were forefront in our thoughts. Our efforts are complete when you succeed. That said, every artistic endeavor has a learning curve. Beginnings are rarely magical. But magic does happen when you just keep putting on that apron!
“Practice isn’t the thing you do when you’re good. It’s the thing you do that
makes
you good.”
—Malcolm Gladwell,
Outliers: The Story of Success
We’ve mentioned this in our introduction, but it bears repeating here: to avoid clutter, we omit certain descriptive words in the ingredient lists of the recipes. For example:
• Organic is not placed before, well,
everything
! But we certainly recommend it be so.
• We recommend all meat and eggs be pastured, also known as grass-fed (
page 35
).
• All seafood is wild with sustainable certification, such as MSC certification.
• All butter used in the creation of the recipes was pastured and unsalted.
• We recommend all other dairy—including milk, cream, and cheese—be sourced as grass-fed, whole/full-fat and possibly raw for uncooked applications (
page 37
).